Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Some Forgotten Basics

So I got a call from Mr. and Mrs. Hinkle the other day, and realized that I hadn't gotten around to a couple of the basics that people might be curious about.

Food.

The staple food here is papa. You can probably guess from the term 'staple' that everybody eats it. Papa is a finely ground maize meal, combined with hot water and stirred to a consistency of stiff mashed potatoes. It is the only food not salted as if iodine deficiency were being combated. When asked what the top three reasons are that the Basotho love papa, the typical response is, "It's cheap."

Moroho is greens. Indiscriminate leafy greens. Often it is cabbage, some onion and some carrot thrown in, cooked in equally liberal amounts of sunflower oil and sodium.

Pumpkin is squash, mashed.

Nama is meat. Basotho love meat. Chicken, beef, mutton, goat. The species is unimportant.

Lesheleshele is a gelatinous Cream of Wheat that is churched up with copious amounts of butter and sugar.

These are the five major food groups of the Basotho.

Clothes.

Generally people are dressed in clean, if sometimes tattered, western style clothes. Some older women wear seshweshwes, which are the traditional dresses. Heardboys wear gumboots, a blanket and a beanie (worn like my Uncle Flick, which is to say pulled lightly over the crown of the head with a large dollop of hat left swinging about at will).

Marriage Proposal: The most common of occurrences.

So a couple days ago I was in an establishment that vended adult beverages. Whilst browsing the inventory a proprietress approached me and inquired into my national origin and time in Lesotho. I courteously informed her that I was from America, in the Peace Corps and would be teaching in Lesotho for two years.

"You have wife in America?"
"No."
"You have girlfriend."
"No."

This was my fatal mistake. Without pause, "I will be your girlfriend."
"No."
"I mean friend. I be friend. We talk. You take me America."
"Nope."

The conversation turned back to her immanent enrollment in nursing school and soon the encounter cordially ended. Eventually I chose a beverage and went to purchase it. A different proprietress handed me a phone and said, "Put your number in for her." Uh oh. I had just purchased a phone and don't lie well to strangers. "Um... I just bought a phone and don't know the number yet..." I crossed my fingers, said a prayer and looked up from the phone. "Oh okay, yo don't know your number yet." She finished processing the transaction and I briskly made my way across the plaza without looking back. Crisis averted...

All this to say that I've gotten much more handsome, charming and rich since I've been in Africa. Also, many Basotho are desperate to get to America, and Americans are clearly the easiest way to achieve that goal. Nearly everybody in the group has had a marriage proposal of one form or another, and everybody has experienced multiple iterations of the "How do I get to America?" question. For now it's flattering.

11 comments:

Maggie said...

1. a charming piece of mail is on its way

2. a phone call is also imminent - i have to figure out how to extort my parents' land line before i go back to wyoming

3. my favorite exchange, in which i could hear your voice vividly:
"i will be your girlfriend."
"nope."

4. if you aren't good as a vehicle for citizenship, what are you good for? :)

love lots,
ms. bourque

rhyoungren said...

i take it this wasn't in sesotho; it was in date-otho. looks like you may be in for many interesting conversations, my son. it's a good thing your name isn't "randy" as you might have a snoot full of waffling exits. i knew growing up was hard to do, but i never thought this would be one of the rites of passage: girlfriend based on US citizenship. maggie, help me understand your understanding. you've had this conversation with Phil the ultimate handsome, charming and rich young man?

Unknown said...

I'm pretty sure I've used all of those lines on you also.

Maggie said...

hi phil this is mrs.b.--i was using mags computer and read your blog. very interesting and funny. we think of you often and hope all goes well. i will try to get something insnail mail to you soon. it actually works better for me--cant you tell by my typing? plus, a i tell girls at school Im technologically challenged!! really. i had typing in 7th grade--so that helps a little--i think. Please take care.

megat said...

  I think your blog is really interesting ... especially this post :)

Candice said...

I echo Maggie wholeheartedly, sans two of her points: I have no desire to talk to you; and will never send you mail.

Okay, maybe those two are a little strongly stated. I've gotta figure out the phone thing, i.e. ask Ryan to set it up. And the mail i'll eventually send might be charming, or might not. You didn't like the picture of the guy holding pudding aloft like the Statue of Liberty that I sent an eon ago; the pain of that rejection is still with me.

Oh, your voice in those two "nope"s is clear. I'm picturing a scene from a movie you and every other male in the world avoided--"The Bachelor." I think. Anyway, he's being chased by about five hundred womens in white dresses. The problem in the African equivalent is you might have a few men after you with sharp implements in such a scenario, as the assumption would likely be that you were due for punishment of some sort. American men would just turn and run the other way.

As for the citizenship vehicle? It would be an interesting next step from the metaphor of time in LA as an arranged marriage to what in essence would be the actual article. By interesting I mean illegal and probably a good way to incur Mom's wrath, but potato potato, right? :-)(This entire message has been leading to this pinnacle of amazing. I couldn't help myself.)

luv,
cyk

Maggie said...

hahah! potato, potato.

Candice said...

Ooohh, so you lie well to everyone else?

Candice said...

thanks, Maggie--isn't it gratifying to be read?

Amanda said...

phil, we're trying to call you, so sad it's not working. love you tons!

CAndice, Ryan, and me. :) aka Panda

Unknown said...

Hi Phil------What a shower for your coming niece or nephew! No baby can possibly use all the loot! I am going to Dixon on the 17th and spend 2 weeks with your grandma and grandpa. Love, Aunt Ruth