Monday, December 29, 2008

Site Arrival






Today I arrived at my site.

Yesterday was the day after Christmas, and I came down with another 24 hour bug, this time with puking and diarrhea. Bugger. Luckily I got over it in time for today’s travels to be as painless as could be hoped for.

The day began with frantic packing by all the Trainees. The goal was to be packed up in the Land Cruisers and on our way by 7:00 am. In an Honest-to-God miracle, four of us, all our stuff, and the driver somehow managed to get on the road by 8:00 am. It was like being in a coal mine during an impending implosion; the roof rack was packed 3 feet high over the entire roof, there were bags on laps and the entire back, every nook and cranny, was filled with our crap. You can take the Americans out of America… etc, etc.

Everybody was feeling pretty good about our feat, and then we stopped at the gas-mart to get gas tanks for our stoves. The entire roof rack was unloaded, then reloaded with four, 19 kg propane tanks added. With the stability of an inverted pendulum, we headed out onto highway.

We dropped off Melody first. It took 4-wheel low to crawl up the road (read rock face, not rocky, much of the road was just one big polished hunk of rock) up to her compound. It is a Catholic Mission, but with the seclusion and oddness of the surrounding pine trees and labyrinth of barbed-wire fences looked more like something out of a bad slasher movie set in the Eastern Cascades. We unloaded her stuff, used her toilet (she is one of four volunteers in my group to have a toilet), and I chased away a spider the size of my palm while everybody waited outside. I quickly informed the group that the spider did indeed jump, shoot venom and fling spider-webbing out of it’s front two legs. This may or may not have helped the general arachnophobia that resides in my fellow trainees.

I thought it was funny.

Next was Meg. She was only about an hour away from Melody in private car and had a cool ronda-mansion (rondaval + mansion = ronda-mansion). Black and white checkered floor, great stamped steel, 70’s era white and aqua cabinets, an wardrobe, she is basically living in a thatched-roof diner.

Mike and I were next to be dropped off. We are both in Ha Sefako, the second to last village on the most northerly route to South Africa. We left Meg’s and headed back down south towards the direction we had come. The right turn we took off the main road immediately became a dirt road and we traveled on that for the next hour and a half. That is to say, we are much more secluded than I had thought.

However, the drive in was gorgeous. The closest thing I can compare it to is a slightly smaller, less sheer rock faced Yosemite valley. Out my front door I look at South Africa and a peak that towers maybe 2500’ above me. The Caledon River (more of a creek right now) is just a couple hundred yards away and is the Northwest border between Lesotho and South Africa. The village is quite small, with a small shop, a secondary school and a primary school.

My supervisor met us along the road and got Mike and I both settled in before taking us to meet the Chief, the police and the owners of the local shop. Unfortunately the trip to the shop (or shopong, how I love cognates) culminated in the purchase of 1 liter of coke, which is why I am still awake writing this. I guess one good thing was that on my return from Mike’s house, two women stopped me, asked for a drink of my coke, and proceeded to polish off the last third of it between them. I think I’ll probably hide stuff in bags from now on unless I’m not interested in consuming it.

So, I’m sitting in my living room, a sizeable 15’ x 15’ room with a single school-sized desk in the middle with two plastic chairs typing by candle light. In the corner are a pair of slightly worn rock-climbing shoes (just my size!) and a pair of Birkenstocks that were left by the last occupant. The two windows are covered in curtains that are made up of old dolphin sheets and a single map of Southern Africa adorns the walls. I am sitting in an orange plastic chair, opposed by another orange plastic chair. The other rooms of the house are a kitchen, bedroom (with a firm mattress, my back is overjoyed) and sizeable storeroom.

I have nothing to store.

Big dreams for the new abode include sizeable chunks for acoustic foam and a giant L-shaped couch for the living room. Realistic dreams are going to have to require some research. The road to South Africa is apparently only passable on foot or with four-wheel drive and a death wish. The other volunteer in the area calls it the ‘Trail of Tears.’ Perhaps some paint, an area rug and some pillows to sit on will be good enough. Who knows what my inner-interior decorator will come up with.

In short, I am extremely excited about this site. I have a couple volunteers who live within 15 minutes (Mike is like 4), the scenery is post-card worthy and my supervisor is super cool.

Cheers all, and thanks for reading. Post a comment. It makes my day!

I will try and post pictures soon, the internet connection in Botha-Bothe is lackluster.

9 comments:

Unknown said...

I'm picturing the Land Cruiser with high cg swaying down the roads and threatening to tip over. Your accommodations sound spacious.

Maggie said...

So glad you're settled into home for the next two years! As I was reading your post, my heart skipped a beat - I had a dream about you last night - and I kid you not, you were sitting in an orange chair. Seriously! We must be psychic or something. I should figure out a way to exploit this new-found talent of mine. Also, the dream made me miss you longtime - I haven't remembered a dream in awhile and it was very realistic, having you around - even down to the furniture :)

It sounds like you're in an incredibly beautiful place, and I am so excited for pictures. You best make good use of those free rock climbing shoes too - little Yosemite you say? :)

I need to find out how to send your mail to you directly...or do I still route it through the main PC office in Maseru?

Your writing continues to amaze...I'm sitting at home right now recovering from a late night of playing Trivial Pursuit and Clue with my mom and my sister - hilarity and mildly competitive insults ensued.

farquette said...

It sounds like things are getting more and more interesting as the time goes by. As usual we got a ton of snow here and then the Chinook Winds began blowing and how everything is melting and the rivers are rising- Ahhhhh!! the Yakima Valley in the winter. Hope things continue as you are expecting even though things seldom do. Contiune with the interesting dialoge and keeping us entertained.

Kristin said...

Phil! It is good to know you like comments. I have not been commenting because I did not know how much time you have to read them! I agree with Maggie, this post was so wonderful to read! The writing is more natural now (I knew you had it in you!) and I look forward to hearing more. So many good things going on here with me. Really good things.
I am home in Oregon for Christmas, we had the worst snow storm in 40 years. Dumped just shy of 3 feet of snow on my parents house. It was pretty crazy. The entire city was shutdown for a few days. Schools closed for an entire week! It has been nice to be home, and peaceful for a change.
I had a long travel day on my way here, and it made me miss you, because I always seem to talk to you when I am in the airport! Miss you, and am praying for you tons!!!
Do update us on your address, and I have a calling card I can use with my cell phone so let us know how to call you! xoxo.

Michael said...

Broski,
I miss you tons, but it sounds like you are really enjoying life down there (minus all the shits bro). I am glad you are settling in. Have you seen a zebra? haha I am thinking that asking you these silly questions about lions and zebras is like someone asking you in LA if you ahd seen an Elk or something! I do not know but if you do see one, jump on and take a pic! Keep blogging, I am enjoying your life as mine is full of school and is hardly enjoyable.

Cheers,

Mike

Liz said...

I think my favorite part of your post was your recounting the dangers of palm-sized spiders...humorous (as usual) to you and not so much to your comrades.

I laughed out loud when I read that--that's SO your style. I hope your students in Lesotho can appreciate your deadpan humor that delights in the mild discomfort of friends as much as I've learned to.

Let me know if I should ship out some area rugs or throw pillows...Mom & I have been hitting the after-holiday sales...

many prayers, friend...Liz

BT said...

Phil,

I never knew you had an inner-interior decorator. The accommodations sound like a HGTV home remodeling project from hell. I'll be fascinated to see what you come up with.

And I loved the spider story. I hate spiders and am amazed that anyone should see them that big, shooting venom, and all that stuff. Cool!

I'm in NY, which is it's own kind of jungle. Be well, and take care of your health!

rhyoungren said...

Chelob. and you didn't take her with you to your new crib? i've been finding out things about my parents and grandparents i never knew before. your mom found these book of questions to ask and record for futures not yet born. it beats talking about doctors and sugar levels and diet. both mom and dad get into it a bit. i'm going to start one for you. and you've already started yours with these journals. candle light or moonlight, keep up the writing.
El V

Candice said...

Nothing like an inverted pendulum. It's always good to start a trip feeling like you're in an episode of Duck Tales(hows about that for a flashback), it makes everything that comes after seem normal. Like Coke kidnappers and lying to people about fauna encounters (is it just me or did a few of your comment-ers believe you, too? yikes) and what was it--dolphin curtains. Truly, they were what set the scene for me.

Honestly, though? All I can think of when I read your description of the terrain is "oh, Lordy, he's gonna become a hermit and never come back." Hmm, hope Mom doesn't read this. But you have to come back eventually, 'cause we'll tell your niece her uncle is a troglodyte, which would be accurate but we'll tell her it means cross-dressing pole dancer.

So there.

cyk