The 4+1 Odyssey

Lumela (dumela)(Hello),

So we're getting into a rhythm here in Maseru. Training continues to be extremely busy, breakfast is at 7, we have 2 2-hour sessions in the morning, 2 1.5-hour sessions in the afternoon and usually another hour-long session in the evening. Everybody is usually exhausted after that.

Our language lesson yesterday was on using public transportation here. It concluded with a trip to the Shoprite (the big grocery store here that is comparable to a mini-Super WalMart (in that it isn't just groceries), taxi ranks and markets. We walked from our training center across the bridge to get to Kingsway, which is the major thorofare through town. Mild pandemoneum took place as a 4+1 was hailed (4 people plus 1 driver, quite clever), which resulted in 6-8 other 4+1's careening directly towards us. They pulled up headfirst into the curb while we tried to figure out who was going in what car. Kaitlen and I got into a 4+1 with 'M'e Malineo at which point 'M'e Malineo (the teacher) very quickly told the driver that were students and that we need to practice our Sesotho (I assume, I obviously couldn't understand what was going on). We backed out, then pulled forward, then backed out, then pulled forward, eventually releasing ourselves from the grip of the surrounding 4+1's and coninued along our way down Kingsway. The 4+1 driver, not to waste space, proceded to stop at every taxi stop, honk and yell at the standersby, then begin to move again without looking forward. I had frequent visions of pedestrian slayings.

I made a feable attempt to tell the driver where we wanted to get out, ask how much it would cost, and eventually ask the name of the lady who somehow shimmied her 240 lb frame next to Kaitlen and me in the back of a sub-compact 4+1. She said her name was Florence.

Finally we got out of the 4+1 and the driver proceeded to scurry about, petitioning the other drivers for change. Once I had my 2 rand of change (20 cents), I turned around to discover the huge market behind me. It was exactly what you would envision an African market to be, many stalls lined up with all kinds of wares and foods being sold. 'M'e Malineo took great care to hold my hand as we crossed the street and was even more vigilant for my safety after one lady bumped into me with her truck, yelling "Sorry Ntate" (sorry Mr.). We were taken to see the Shoprite (there is another one a 5 minute walk from the Peace Corps Training Center), the taxi ranks (VW bus type of rigs that travel all over Lesotho), the Sprinter ranks (bigger taxis), the local 4+1 ranks and finally, and most gloriously, a Kentucky Fried Chicken. It wasn't nearly as out of place as I thought it'd be.

The return trip was exceedingly entertaining as I sat with 'M'e Malineo in the back of the taxi (this is the VW Bus type) while Kaitlen was a couple rows ahead. 'M'e Malineo began to prompt the driver, as well as helper boy in the back who solicited other riders while standing halfway outside of the vehicle, to ask her questions in Sesotho. He asked some basic questions, which Kaitlen nailed, then proceeded to speak much more quickly. Kaitlen responded with an indignent, "I don't know anything else!". He turned and asked me the same question, 'M'e Malineo whispered the question much more slowly and Americanized in my ear, and I blurted out a reply with a large smile on my face and unfounded confidence in my language abilities.

Today we had the pleasure of having the US Ambassador come to our training site to address us. He is a cool guy, and I was amazed at the breadth of aid and the scope of the programs that the US is partnering with Lesotho on. We will be heading over to his residence next Thursday to relax and have a Thanksgiving dinner, it should be a good time.

Other than that, things are going well. There was an improvised dance party in the kitchen last night with strobing headlights and various dance moves that I haven't seen performed by sober WASPs in a long time. Photo and video documentation should have been banned. It was not. The fallout will echo throughout our service here, no doubt.

I am still very impressed by the quality of training and especially the quality of the trainers. We have a good time and cover a lot of good material.

That's all for now.

Sala Hantle